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Louisiana Express
Cajun

Best Bargain
[Map It]Bethesda
4921 Bethesda Avenue
Bethesda, MD
301-652-6945
Open daily for breakfast, lunch, and dinner. Dinner until 11 pm Friday and Saturday. Sunday brunch 9 to 2:30.

This small restaurant provides a wide choice of good Louisiana cooking. While the setting is not elegant, the place is popular. Diners come to pick up carryout orders, drop in for a New Orleans­style sandwich, or relax over one of the elaborate stews that are the hallmark of Louisiana cooking. A feature is that most main courses come in large and small sizes. Beer--including some obscure Louisiana brands--and wine are available.

Start with deep-fried appetizers like the crab balls or catfish beignets, which are pieces of fish coated in a heavily seasoned batter before being immersed in hot oil. Or order one of the gumbos or seafood soups, such as crawfish bisque.

The core of the menu are the stir-fries and three Louisiana staples--creoles, étouffées, and jambalayas. Most diners order one of these with a choice of chicken, andouille sausage, or shrimp. Some avoid the difficulty of choosing by demanding all three. The étouffée, with its intense brown sauce, and the simple rice jambalaya are good choices. Worth a try is the rotisserie chicken, especially the spicy Cajun version. The house-made pecan bread pudding is a pleasing finale.

— David Dorsen

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